Milan in 2 Days: everything you need to know

A weekend in the capital of Lombardy is an ideal city break. It is a medium-sized city, easy to get around on foot or by public transport.

Matteo Gramegna

Matteo Gramegna

14 min read

Milan in 2 Days: everything you need to know

Milano | ©PHeen0

Have you booked a flight to Milan? Well done, the northern Italian city is one of Europe's emerging destinations. On the occasion of Expo 2015 the city has gained new public spaces that have joined its historical attractions.

We have prepared a route that touches (almost) all the points of interest. Read on to find out what to see and do in Milan.

Day 1: the essentials of the Lombard capital

Caffè Carlino| ©Juan Lines
Caffè Carlino| ©Juan Lines

The first day's route starts at the foot of its most famous monument: the Duomo. Before discovering this Gothic jewel, we will delight our palate with a good breakfast. Being in a tourist area, you need to know which bars to avoid in order to avoid disappointment. Don't worry, there are dozens of options to choose from.

Start the day by honouring tradition

Traditionally, breakfast in Italy is sweet and a stop at the bar necessarily involves cornetto and cappuccino. The "cornetto" is a croissant in the shape of a crescent that can be empty or filled with apricot jam, chocolate, Nutella, pistachio or pastry cream. To enjoy a good breakfast you can choose from the following options:

  • Marchesi 1824, a historic Milanese pastry shop with two centuries of history. The jewel in the crown is the Torta Aurora, a sponge cake with Madagascar vanilla syrup and custard topped with a veil of whipped cream, sponge grains and icing sugar (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II).
  • Panini Durini, the breakfast that combines tradition and modernity. If you like pancakes, this is your ideal destination. There are also sweet toasts, yoghurt and fresh fruit bowls, muffins and slices of cake (Via Orefici 5 and Via Giuseppe Mengoni 4).
  • Caffè Carlino, a bar offering a selection of delicacies made in the historic Pasticceria San Carlo. In addition to the croissants, I recommend you try their krapfen (fritters filled with pastry cream) and kiffel, the ancestor of the cornetto (Via Giuseppe Mazzini).
  • Iginio Massari, for the most demanding palates. It is named after its creator, a master pastry chef who won the World Pastry Cup in 1997 and the European Cup in 2002. He is a well-known figure in Italy and has participated in several editions of Masterchef and other programmes dedicated to pastry-making. It's not cheap but it's worth popping in to try his most famous creations: maritozzo (a sweet roll filled with cream), setteveli (a tart with a smooth hazelnut mousse, a crunchy biscuit layer and red fruit garnish) and macarons (Via Guglielmo Marconi 4).

Stay open-mouthed at the foot of the Duomo

Milan's icon and one of the most imposing monuments in Italy. This Gothic church leaves no one indifferent. The spires adorned with white marble statues are a delight to behold.

The Milanese had to wait 500 years to enjoy the silhouette we can see today ! In fact, work began in 1386 and was completed at the end of the 19th century.

In fact, we can say that construction never stopped. The Veneranda Fabbrica del Duomo is the historical institution responsible for the conservation and improvement of the Cathedral.

It was inaugurated in 1387 by Gian Galeazzo Visconti, the Lord of Milan. Every damaged statue or piece of art is restored or replaced by a team of professionals.

When you cross the threshold you will be astonished to see the height of the ceiling. Its naves hide thousands of treasures and some curious details such as the San Bartolomeo Scorticato (a statue refiguring the flayed saint) or the Sacco del Giudizio Universale, a large sack hanging from the right nave which, according to popular tradition, will only fall at the end of the world. There are thousands of things to see and if you want to go deeper I recommend you read the article on what to see inside the Duomo.

Another highly recommended option is to go up to the roof of the Cathedral. You can admire the 135 spires, the Madonnina (the golden statue of the Madonna), the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele and the rooftops of nearby buildings. On clear days, the Alps can be seen behind the skyscrapers.

Also in this case I recommend you to read the post that explains how to climb to the terrace of the Duomo in Milan and the prices of each option.

Book your visit to the Duomo of Milan

Visit the Museo del Novecento

Museo del Novecento| ©Paolobon140
Museo del Novecento| ©Paolobon140

As the name suggests, this cultural institution focuses on the artistic production of the 20th century. It occupies the interior of the Palazzo dell'Arengario whose terrace used to host Mussolini during his political speeches. The Museo del Novecento is a newcomer in Piazza del Duomo and is open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 19:30.

Among its most famous pieces it is impossible not to mention "Forme uniche della continuità nello spazio" (a sculpture by Boccioni), "Il Quarto Stato" ( a famous painting by Pellizza da Volpedo) and Picasso's "Femme Nue". The price of a ticket is around €10.

Look up at Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

This majestic iron and glass lattice structure was designed by architect and engineer Giuseppe Mengoni.

In the second half of the 19th century, Milan wanted to catch up with the great cities of Europe and decided to reorganise the area around Piazza Duomo. Where today there is a sumptuous covered passageway, in the past there was a pile of popular residences that were demolished to make way for modernity.

Inside you will find the shops of the most prestigious brands, restaurants, bars and a historic art bookshop: Libreria Bocca.

If you visit Milan at Christmas time you will see the splendidly decorated tree in the centre of the covered passageway. As usual, all Christmas decorations are officially lit on 7 December, the day of Milan's patron saint: Santo Ambrogio.

Make a stop at the Teatro alla Scala

As you leave the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele you will come to Piazza della Scala. You will recognise it by the marble statue of Leonardo da Vinci.

A few metres further on is the temple of opera: the Teatro della Scala. It was founded by the will of the Empress of Austria Maria Theresa to replace the ducal theatre that had been destroyed by fire.

This emblematic place bears the signature of Giuseppe Piermarini, an architect who was very active in the region. He also designed the elegant Palazzo Belgioioso (Piazza Belgioioso 2), the Villa Reale of Monza (his masterpiece), the Palazzo Ducale and other buildings. La Scala has always hosted the world's most famous opera masters and dancers.

The already excellentacoustics were improved in 2006 with the implementation of new mechanised ceilings and front walls. You can take the opportunity to see the programme and book a show. For more information I recommend you read the post about tickets and how to visit the Teatro della Scala.

Book your visit to the Scala Theatre

Reach the Castello Sforzesco

Milan Castle| ©Agnieszka Rysio
Milan Castle| ©Agnieszka Rysio

Visiting the castle of Milan is almost an obligation. This fortress is majestic and if today we can appreciate it in all its splendour, the merit goes to the architect and art historian Luca Beltrami. He recovered the original elements and eliminated the additions that were a burden to the construction.

The main entrance is in Piazza Castello, just a few metres from Piazza Largo Cairoli. It is only a ten-minute walk from La Scala. On arrival you will see a fountain and the silhouette of the Filarete Tower.

To discover its history, I recommend booking a guided tour that includes access to the Pietà Rondanini Museum and the Museum of Ancient Art. Alternatively, you are free to visit it from 7:00 to 19:30.

Rest in Parco Sempione

After the visit to the castle you can rest for a while in the dean of Milanese parks. It has been the green lung of the city centre since 1893 and is an ideal place to rest.

You will pass by the Aquarium and the Arena civica Gianni Brera, a former stadium that was the home of F.C. Inter until 1947. Formerly, this area dotted with woods, green lawns and small streams was Milan's parade ground.

Book a guided tour of Milan

Have an aperitif at the Arco della Pace

At Living Liqueurs & Delights,| ©Bernadette M
At Living Liqueurs & Delights,| ©Bernadette M

A few metres from the park is a large monumental gate: the Arco della Pace. Its construction began at the beginning of the 19th century when the city was under Napoleon's power. However, the works were completed in 1838 when Milan had already returned under the influence of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Around it are dozens of bars where you can enjoy a good aperitif - in some places they are like dinners! You can choose one of these establishments:

  • Living Liqueurs & Delights, a bar with an extensive selection of vodka. It is characterised by an elegant atmosphere and a modern cuisine offering tasty and original snacks. It is also a recommended choice for brunch (Piazza Sempione 2).
  • Deseo, a reference in Milan. It has a rich happy hour with a buffet and both classic and original cocktails. We recommend booking well in advance (Corso Sempione 2).
  • Jazz Cafè, a charming place. It offers a wide variety of appetizers, including sushi roll and pizza. Later in the evening, a DJ set livens up the night (Corso Sempione 8).
  • Parco Milano, a bar a stone's throw from the Arco della Pace. With a bit of luck you can find a seat at the tables outside and enjoy the view. Wait for a tram to pass by for more evocative photos (Piazza Sempione 5).
  • Tutto bene, a paradise for cheese and charcuterie lovers. During the aperitif you can try the "Tagliere misto", a board with salame felino (a typical salami from the province of Parma), prosciutto crudo (cured ham), pecorino di Sardegna (cured sheep's cheese) with honey and other delicacies (Via Luigi Cagnola 4).

Day 2: modernity and history

Gae Aulenti Square| ©Daniel
Gae Aulenti Square| ©Daniel

The route of the second day starts in the most modern area of Milan: Garibaldi - Porta Nuova. After a major urban redevelopment project, the area has been reborn thanks to buildings and urban spaces designed by architects of the calibre of César Pelli and Stefano Boeri. The works have also revitalised Isola, a historic and popular neighbourhood.

Discover Garibaldi - Porta Nuova - Isola

As I said before, the Porta Nuova urban development project has revolutionised these neighbourhoods. This area used to be the site of a disused railway station. For many years, the area was abandoned.

The Isola neighbourhood owes its name to the isolation caused by the nearby railway. The works have broken down the old barriers and at the same time have brought new attractions to the city. Here are some of them:

  • Piazza Gae Aulenti, the symbol of the Milanese Renaissance. It is located in a raised position and can be reached by an escalator. It is topped by three infinity fountains and contemporary sculptures.
  • Corso Como, a pedestrian street connecting Piazza XXV Aprile with the Garibaldi railway station. It is the Mecca of local nightlife. If you are interested in the subject, I recommend you to read the post about what to do in Milan at night.
  • Unicredit Tower, the skyscraper designed by the Argentinian César Pelli. It's an architectural gem that stands out for its sinuous lines and the iconic tower that rises into the city's skyline (Piazza Gae Aulenti 3).
  • Fonderia Napoleonica Eugenia, an ancient bronze foundry that made bells and monuments for over a century. It now houses a museum dedicated to the art of metal casting (Via Genova Thaon di Revel 21).
  • Bosco Verticale, a skyscraper covered with greenery. The work of architect Stefano Boeri is inspired by policies of reforestation and renaturation of the edges of urban areas. In 2014 it won the International Highrise Award, a biennial competition that awards the prize for the most beautiful skyscraper in the world.

Book your ticket for the sightseeing bus in Milan

Stroll through the Alberi Library

Another landmark of the great Milanese transformation is the Biblioteca degli Alberi, an urban park designed by the Dutch architect Petra Blaisse. The special feature of this green area is the 23 species of trees arranged in rings that form small forests.

Around its perimeter there is also a labyrinth of bushes, a pond, two areas dedicated to dogs and hundreds of flowers and plants.

If you are looking for things to do in Milan with children, the Biblioteca degli Alberi is a must-see. You'll find a dedicated area whose spongy surface hosts various types of swings.

A few metres further on you will also find an athletics track, parallel tracks and training machines (Via Gaetano de Castillia 18/20).

Stand in front of the Stazione Centrale

Milano Central Station| ©Paolobon140
Milano Central Station| ©Paolobon140

About ten minutes' walk from the park is the most important railway station in the city. From here we will take the metro to get to the next stage and in the meantime, we take the opportunity to admire the silhouette of this imposing building.

It is difficult to say to which artistic movement it belongs, as it includes elements of Assyrian-Babylonian, neoclassical and modernist styles. What is certain is that its size is typical of fascist architecture.

Enter the Church of San Maurizio

From Stazione Centrale, go down to the metro to take line 3 in the direction of Abbiategrasso or Assago Milanofiori Forum. After five stops you will arrive at Cadorna.

When you get on the surface you will see the sculpture depicting a needle and coloured threads and a station behind the monument. By the way, trains depart from here to the north of the region. Excursions to Lake Como start here.

The church of San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore is a few metres further on. It is nicknamed "the Sistine Chapel of Milan" for the magnificent paintings that cover the ceiling and walls.

It used to house cloistered nuns and a partition called "Coro delle Monache" separates the public area from that reserved for nuns. It can be visited from Wednesday to Sunday, from 10.00 to 17.30 (Corso Magenta 15).

Book your excursion to Lake Como from Milan

Admire Santa Maria delle Grazie and its most precious jewel: The Last Supper

Once you leave the church of San Maurizio, continue east along Via Magenta to reach another temple: Santa Maria delle Grazie.

This three-nave church is an example of the Lombard style of the early Renaissance. Its triangular silhouette and reddish bricks are its hallmark. Inside are 14 chapels which were used as burial places for the most prominent families.

Leonardo da Vinci'sThe Last Supper is one of his most famous paintings and is housed in the dining room of the former Dominican convent attached to the church. It was commissioned by Ludovico il Moro and depicts Jesus with the twelve apostles.

To visit it , you must book in advance or choose a guided tour. A guided tour of the church and the drawing usually costs around €90.

Book your visit to The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci

Discover Leonardo's garden

Leonardo's garden| ©bradman334
Leonardo's garden| ©bradman334

Just opposite the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, at Corso Magenta 65, is a place that few Milanese know about: Leonardo da Vinci's Vineyard.

The Tuscan genius lived in the Lombard capital for 18 years and in this time he took care of various matters, from the reorganisation of the canals to the paintings of the castle.

To pay homage to Leonardo, Duke Ludovico il Moro gave him a vineyard located in the garden of Casa Atellani, a rinascimental residence of rare beauty.

To visit these rooms you have two options: a ticket with audio guide (€10 per person) or a guided tour in small groups (€20 per person). If you are interested in the figure of the Florentine polymath, I recommend a visit to the Leonardo da Vinci Museum in Milan (Via San Vittore 21).

Walk to the Basilica of Sant'Ambrogio

Once out, take Via Bernardino Zenale and then turn onto Via San Vittore. In a few minutes you will arrive in front of a church that is often overlooked: Sant'Ambrogio.

It is dedicated to the patron saint of the city who was born in Gaul in the 4th century and found fortune in Milan. To him we owe the foundation of the local diocese and the construction of four basilicas.

It is a very ancient place of worship as it is built on the foundations of an ancient early Christian church. After the death of the saint, the church was modified several times until it reached its current configuration.

Inside you can see the sarcophagus of Stilicho, a Roman general of barbarian origin who ruled the Western Roman Empire until his death.

It can be visited freely from Monday to Saturday, from 10:00 to 12:00 and from 14:30 to 18:00. On Sundays the opening hours are reduced: from 15:00 to 17:00.

End the day in the Navigli

No trip to Milan would be complete without a stop along the canals. In the past it was a small Venice in the middle of the plain although today only the Porta Ticinese Dock (the old port of Milan) survives. It remained operational until the 1960s), the Naviglio Grande (a canal that starts in the Ticino river and ends in the dock), the Naviglio Pavese (it reaches the city of Pavia) and the Naviglio della Martesana (it connects Milan with the Adda river).

Except for the last one, the other canals are concentrated in one neighbourhood: Navigli. Take time to stroll along the banks of the canals and admire some of the most authentic corners of old Milan: Vicolo dei Lavandai (a picturesque corner of the city of yesteryear), the Cortile degli artisti (a typical Lombard railed house overlooking the Naviglio Grande) or the Conchetta, a barrier that allowed boats to bridge the difference in height between two canals.

There are dozens of bars and restaurants in this area. If you want to try something typical, you can book a table at Brellín, a tavern that offers traditional Milanese dishes.

I recommend you try the ossobuco (a portion of veal tibia with marrow cooked in a sauce based on lemon zest and white wine) and the cotoletta alla milanese (a bone-in veal cutlet coated in breadcrumbs and cooked in clarified butter). Located at Vicolo dei Lavandai, Alzaia Naviglio Grande 14.

What to do in Milan in case of bad weather?

Poldi Pezzoli Museum| ©Paolobon140
Poldi Pezzoli Museum| ©Paolobon140

Winter in Milan is usually cold and rainy. However, rain is not a problem. In case of bad weather, you can dedicate a day to the museums. In addition to those already mentioned in the article, you can choose one of the following options:

  • Fondazione Prada, the citadel of art in the south of Milan. It hosts three permanent exhibitions - Atlas, Haunted House and Processo grottesco - and temporary ones. Open every day except Tuesday. Easily reached by metro line 3 (Largo Isarco 2).
  • Museo del Design Italiano, a space dedicated to the most important pieces of Italian design. It is located inside the Triennale, a museum near Parco Sempione and the Castle (Viale Emilio Alemagna 6).
  • Fabbrica del Vapore, an industrial archaeological complex near the Monumental Cemetery. What used to be a factory is now one of the most important exhibition spaces in Milan. Usually open from 8:00 to 19:30 (Via Procaccini 4).
  • Museo Poldi Pezzoli, the art collection of Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli. The pieces are housed in a late 19th-century aristocratic Milanese residence. Among the most outstanding works are "Pra della Valle in Padova" (Canaletto) and "Ritratto di giovane dama" (Piero del Pollaiolo). The cultural institution is located near the famous Via Montenapoleone (Via Alessandro Manzoni 12).
  • Museo Mondo Milan, the space dedicated to the Rossoneri team. In the trophy room you can see the Champions League, Serie A cups and other trophies won in over 100 years of history. The museum is located in the adventurous Casa Milan, the club's new headquarters just a stone's throw from the San Siro stadium (Via Aldo Rossi, 8).

Is it worth seeing around Milan in a two-day trip?

In my opinion it is not worth it. A weekend is perfect to discover the essentials of Milan without having to speed up the pace of sightseeing too much. There is one exception: if you visit the Lombard capital in summer, an excursion is more than advisable. In June, July and August, temperatures soar in the city.

Fortunately, there is no shortage of options for finding cooler air. One of the most famous destinations is Lake Como. From Milan it is a short journey by train or car. On the shores of the lake you will find dozens of pretty lakeside villages and boat trips to enjoy the scenery in comfort.